Bill Donovan's Converted Model 800

Here are a few pictures of a Model 800 rollfilm camera that Bill Donovan [email: bdonovan3@earthlink.com ] converted to packfilm. He points out that he hasn't quite finished with it from a cosmetic standpoint, but I'd say it's looking pretty good so far! (images used with permission)

Bill also wrote some detailed construction notes about his conversion attempt, and which he's granted permission for me to include on this site. I'm sure others may learn some useful tips from his experience, so I'm providing his notes nearly complete with only a few minor edits. (I've added a few comments, and these appear in italics --MK)

In preparing the 800 for the back I removed the original back, the top of the camera (area where the focusing mech and viewfinders are located), and I gently removed the black plate that covers the top of the camera body when the plastic is removed. (This sounds like a pretty good idea. While not absolutely necessary, removing the critical rangefinder assembly in this way would also help prevent damage from vibration caused by the cutting procedure. --MK)

In the film plane there are some little tabs that stick up that guide the roll film negative straight accross the exposure area. I had to cut these off in order the mount the back as close to the original film plane as possible. I used a dremel to do this.

Then I used the dremel and cut off the lip along the bottom of the camera body. I only removed what was necessary to allow the back to be positioned correctly and also allow it to open properly. Then I used the dremel and sanding attachment and smoothed the rough edges. I also slightly rounded the sharp edges of the metel. This removed the hazard of cutting myself while handling the camera.

Once all of that was completed I laid the film back on the camera to determine where I should cut to remove the end of the camera. I made the miter cut using a plain hand held hack saw going from the top of the camera down as far as the saw could go. Than I had to turn the camera over and make the same cut from the bottom up. Once that was completed again I used the sanding attachment to my dremel tool and smoothed the edges and put a slight round over on it to avoid the cutting of myself. (Good idea-- I've seen a few converted cameras with very sharp edges where the cut was made. --MK)

With all of this complete it was time for the fun part of mating this new back with the body. To attach the back to the body I used rivets and JB Weld. JB Weld comes in a putty form slightly firmer than play dough. If you aren't familiar with it it is an epoxy. It worked out very nicely. (This is a much better solution to the problem than what I came up with. At the time I'm revising this page, I've heard from two other people who tried J-B Weld for this purpose, and both reported good results-- even without reinforcing the bond with rivets! Thanks for the great tip, Bill! --MK)

On these cameras it is very easy to remove the bellows from the body of the camera. You must use extreme caution when doing this so as not to damage the bellows or the frame it mounts to. It is held to the body of the camera by 10 little fold over tabs. They are located on the inside of the exposure area of the camera. You can find them eaisly by running your finger over the frame of the exposure area slightly bent to the inside. Once you locate these tabs you can gently pry them up and let the bellows fall away from the camera body.

I followed the insturctions for kneeding the JB Weld and rolled it into a thin roll approximately 12 inches long. (Long enough to go all the way around the film plane of the camera). I then pressed the camera back in to the JB Weld as tightly as I could. Once the adhesive had hardened enough to work with (5 to 10 minutes) I drilled 4 holes in the frame that holds the bellows in place and right through the film back. I put 2 on each end just to make sure the back is held securely to the body under use. I put the flattest side of the rivet on the bellows side of the camera body so as not to interfere with the light tight seal. Which it does not.

The JB Weld created a light tight seal between the body of the camera and the new film back. It is dark grey in color so it should not cause any light reflections when taking pictures.

With all that complete the camera would be ready to adjust the focal plane. I finished out by triming the plastic top piece and the black plate that goes under it to the mitered cut I made in the body of the camera and reinstalled them. I also cut the left hand side of the old film door and reinstalled it so there wouldn't be a gaping hole on the left rear of the camera.

To make the job look more professional I think I will replace the leatherette on the camera so I can cover the bare metal cuts where the latching mech was removed and recover the door to the left on the rear. I just have to locate a place that sells that kind of material.